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"We sit around the room, all 25 to 30 of us, talking and discussing whether or not the cigar is producing the tastes that we have been asked to create by Habanos," says Amaury Borges, trying to explain how new brands are created in Cuba.

"It's a very interesting process because everyone is used to smoking particular cigars, often from the factories where they work," he adds, "but when we are together we have to use criteria established for all Cuban cigars." Borges, one of Cuba's leading tobacco scientists at the Instituto de Investigaciones del Tabaco (Tobacco Research Institute), explains that the institute has detailed records, with some information dating back to before the Cuban revolution, of the physical and chemical composition of tobacco grown on every principal farm in Cuba.

Next comes a rigorous and long process of testing different blends, tasting them, making sure the blend is right for each vitola, or size, being created for the new brand.

Then, for the final test, the best rollers in the factory where it will be produced are chosen to create a test batch for the panel.

But Borges' and the institute's role in the creation of Cuba's famous cigar brands goes beyond knowing where the best tobacco is grown in the country and testing cigars.

They are part of a large apparatus that determines everything from the seeds authorized for each tobacco-growing season, to taking part in the taste tests for the final product, including the top export brands.

Cuba's Tobacco Research Institute, known as Instituto de Investigaciones del Tabaco, controls the seeds used by the farmers and conducts research to improve seed strains via natural methods of crossing and selection.

"We know the sensory qualities of tobacco grown in every specific location in the country," he says.

As a result, when the marketing department at Habanos comes up with a proposed brand, and outlines the tastes and flavors they want in the cigar, the institute has a good idea of where they need to go to find tobacco for that type of cigar profile.

One reason for the charge that Cuban brands are becoming homogenized may spring from the fact that since nationalization of the cigar industry in the early 1960s brands are not necessarily made in one factory, but production may be spread across a few facilities.

However, one independent taster, who asked to remain anonymous, is adamant that Cuba's big brands have identifiable flavor profiles.

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The tasters on those factory panels are constantly evaluated, and the best are sent to the national commission.

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